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Selecting a Vacuum Types of Vacuums
Canister Vacuum – This type of vacuum is usually
identified with its long hose and separate motor and filtering unit, usually
rectangular or oval shaped, and wheels that allow it to be pulled behind the
user. Canister vacuums come with several types of nozzles. One type is a
“straight suction,” usually a combination floor/rug tool. This type has no
brush roll and is used primarily for hard style floors and/or throw rugs.
Some can
Steam Vacuum – This type of vacuum is a misnomer, as
thes
Wet/Dry Vacuums – These vacuums are typically referred
to as a “Shop Vac,” but this is actually the name of the company whose name
has become synonymous with the wet/dry vacuum, just
Carpet Sweeper – Although technically this is not a
vacuum as it has no motor to create Here is where your journey to find the right vacuum begins. A very large percentage of our customers come to the store and ask us, “What’s the best vacuum cleaner?” There is only one correct answer to that question. The answer is, “It depends.” Remember, the BEST vacuum cleaner for YOU is the one that will do the cleaning job that you require, on the surfaces that you must clean, with the effectiveness that you need. You should be able to afford the right vacuum, and you should feel comfortable using it regularly. About every 3rd person who comes to our store says that they want a “lightweight” vacuum. Our next question is, “Do you want a vacuum with cleaning tools and hose attachments on board?” 9 out of 10 times the answer to that question is, “Yes.” Unfortunately, as of today, you can have lightweight or you can have on board tools, but you cannot have both. The following is a list of questions that we recommend you answer for yourself and give serious consideration to before shopping for a vacuum. We at BEST VACUUM SUPERSTORE utilize our knowledge and experience to take the answers to these questions and sift through the maze of over 200 choices in our store and narrow it down to 3 or 4 choices.
Most people are very willing to share the answers to any of the other questions that we ask, but when we ask about budget, most people seem unwilling to answer this question. I suspect that it is a belief that we’ll point them to a more expensive vacuum. We have over 200 vacuum cleaners on display and the prices range from $19.99 to $1,300.00. It makes no sense for one of our professionals to spend time showing you a vacuum that fits all of your needs as you have described them, but costs $750, if your budget only allows for a maximum of $400. It is our desire to match you to 3 or 4 models out of the 200 choices that meet your specific needs. Often customers ask us, “What’s the difference between that $200 vacuum and that $800 vacuum or a $400 vacuum and a $1,150 vacuum?” This is a fair and very reasonable question and is usually fairly simple to answer when we are in the showroom comparing two specific models. But to answer the question here without specific models, I will give you a GENERAL answer. When purchasing a more expensive vacuum, there are generally 4 things that justify the additional investment:
Answering the questions above and finding a vacuum that may do a wonderful job of cleaning your home the way that you want is only part of the job. Once we have narrowed down the choices for you, we recommend that you “test drive” the vacuum in our showroom. We will plug in each vacuum, and let you try each one so that you can determine whether it is right for you. If you find that a vacuum meets all of the criteria that we have established and you then take it home where it seldom gets used because it is “too heavy” or “awkward” or any other complaint, then it will not be a very good vacuum cleaner for you. The BEST vacuum is the one you will use often to keep your home or business clean. The following is a short list of things that we believe is important and that many of you have asked us about when you have visited: There is no clearing house such as UL (Underwriter Laboratories) that independently tests all vacuum cleaners and publishes a report so that you can compare the performance of the vacuums under the exact same conditions for each model. This is unlikely to happen unless there is government momentum to do so. Some go to Consumer Reports to obtain what you believe is a method of accomplishing this. This is probably not your best source either. What is the best method? The best method is to utilize knowledge and education when one is making a decision to purchase a quality vacuum. Air Flow –The movement of air from one location to another, usually measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute). It is the force exerted by the moving air which actually picks up the dirt and moves it into the bag or dirt container. This is one of the most important aspects of determining the true measure of vacuum cleaner effectiveness. Yet, sadly, few manufacturers publish these test numbers. Amperage (amps) –This is the most misunderstood and least reliable method for determining the performance of a vacuum cleaner. The maximum allowable amperage allowed by UL is 12 amps. We have vacuums that vary from 4.2 amps to 12 amps. Remember that just because a motor is rated at 12 amps does not mean that it is constantly drawing 12 amps while you are using it. This is the MAXIMUM rating. Amperage DOES NOT equal performance. Air Watts –A specification developed in an effort to rate the output power of the vacuum cleaner instead of its input power. This is actually a good indication of the efficiency of a vacuum, but it is used mostly by manufacturers of central vacuum systems. It is based on suction with air flow at the unit itself, so it is affected by the suction produced by the suction motor as well as the internal resistance to air flow. The suction and air flow are measured with the air flow being restricted by a 2” opening. Care should be taken not to confuse this suction with air flow rating or with the sealed suction rating (no air flow), which is about four times higher. Keep in mind that the air watt rating does not necessarily reflect the actual air flow in the complete system during normal use. In addition to the resistance within the power unit and the resistance caused by air turbulence in the hose and tubing, there is restriction where the cleaning nozzle contacts the floor, as well as increased resistance within the filtering system as it fills with dirt. Beater Bar –A long stiff bar or raised section of the brush roll that is designed to separate the carpet fibers and vibrate to cause the dirt particles to be loosened and thus be available to be drawn into the vacuum by the suction and air flow. This was common on vacuums in years past but is less common today. Some commercial vacuums still have this feature, and the “beating” on non padded commercial carpet actually damages the vacuum motor and requires premature motor or bearing replacement. Brush Roll –A part of the vacuum that is cylindrical in shape and makes contact with the carpet. Its primary purpose is to agitate the carpet, separating the fibers so that dirt, embedded hair, dust, and other microscopic items lodged in the carpet fibers can be drawn into the air stream. The embedded particles might not be able to be picked up with only a strong suction and air flow; thus, the brush roll provides that action. There is usually one brush roll in a vacuum; however, some manufacturers have opted for multiple and even counter rotating brush rolls on their vacuums. Cleaning Effectiveness – There is no agreed upon definition of what this means, but there are generally two ways of viewing this. 1) The ability of a vacuum to pick up dirt from a particular surface. 2) The ability of a vacuum to pick up dirt, filter and trap it so that the dirt or allergens are not re-circulated back into your home.
Cleaning “Effectiveness Rating” – Complete smoke & mirrors. This is one
manufacturer’s attempt to utilize some valid and standardized tests and add
some of their own criteria to make consumers believe that they were
providing a better vacuum. It is confusing, misunderstood and irrelevant.
The dirty air passes through a filter medium to remove it from the air. Various components that can be used in filtering systems include paper bags, nylon electrostatic filters, glass fiber paper filters, cloth or foam filters, cyclonic chambers, and even water (despite all demonstrations to the contrary, water is a very poor filter medium). Your vacuum bag is one of the most important parts of this filter system. If you use a “bagless” vacuum you must have another type of filter to trap the dust from the exhaust flow of the vacuum motor, and these must be regularly cleaned to maintain the efficiency of the vacuum.
HEPA – This is among the most often referred to items that consumers want in
their vacuums today. HEPA stands for “high efficiency particulate air.” HEPA
is a filtering specification developed during World War II when the United
States was developing nuclear weapons. We felt a need to filter out all
radioactive dust and particles from sites and not have them emitted into the
atmosphere. Specifically, the specification for a HEPA filter is that it
must filter 99.97% of all particles .3 microns in size. Just for reference,
a particle of 10 microns is invisible to the naked eye. Pollen ranges
between 5-100 microns and human hair between 70-100 microns. Suction – Used broadly, suction is the ability of a vacuum cleaner to efficiently pick up dirt. When used in a more narrow way, it is the actual pull or pressure difference created by the spinning fans in the suction motor. The term suction is often used interchangeably with the term vacuum. Suction or vacuum is measured in “Inches of Water Lift” (see below). This is a very specific test and is calibrated for variances in atmospheric pressure so that all vacuum motors can be evaluated equally. Unfortunately, very few vacuum cleaner manufacturers publish these test numbers for comparison. Water Lift – The sealed suction of a vacuum cleaner as rated in inches of water lift is a good indication of how well it will perform, especially when comparing systems with higher resistance to the air flow. The air flow is proportional to the amount of suction produced by the motor and inversely proportional to the total resistance to air flow within the complete system. Therefore, if everything else is equal, the more suction produced by the motor, the better the performance of the system. The sealed suction rating is somewhat greater than the suction normally produced when operating with air flow. Which is Better Bagged or Bagless? (top)
The recent trend in consumers buying bagless vacuums is an example of some of the finest marketing you will ever witness. I say that with a great deal of respect. American consumers have been seduced (yes seduced) into accepting and embracing a vacuuming system that is inherently dirty.
You have been convinced that you will never have to buy vacuum bags again.
This is absolutely true if you buy a bagless vacuum. The marketing of these
machines has played on your frustration of finding that you have a full
vacuum bag and don’t have a replacement and now have to go out for the
unpleasant task of finding replacements. And, who knows if you will
Bagless vacuums have many rubber seals and joints in them. At each one of these joints is an opportunity for air to leak out, and rather than capture dust and debris, it has the potential to leak back into your home. In our store, we will show you by using a particle counter how much more dust is being re-circulated into the air from dirty air leaking from the joints of these vacuums.
Most manufacturers have capitalized on the initial success of the “seduction” and offered their product at very low prices. It’s because they are not costly to make and are also made poorly. Most bagless vacuums are priced below $200 and many are below $100. Yet the best selling manufacturer of bagless vacuums has utilized bright colors, unique design, and brilliant marketing to get you to give them at least $400 and as much as $700 for a product that is no better than the lower priced models.
In our opinion, bagged vacuums are preferred and are much better and cleaner for your home. Bagged systems are much easier to dispose of. Just close the bag latch or fold it over and throw it out. Generally the replacement bags cost less than replacement filters for bagless vacuums. The vacuums are of much higher quality and will last longer and clean better over the life of the machine. Many conspirators would have you believe that the argument for bagged vacuums is because we want to be able to sell bags for years to come. If one looks at the statistical data on the number of bagless vacuums sold in the U.S., it would suggest that people are buying a new vacuum cleaner (remember more than 50% of all vacuums are bagless) every two years. Where are all those bagless vacuums going? I’m afraid it’s to the landfill. When you have bought 2 or 3 of these and are tired of buying a new vacuum every coupe of years…come and see us and we will demonstrate a quality vacuum that you will operate for many, many years. Unique Vacuum Issues: Pet Hair, Allergies, Shag, Hardwood (top) Pet Hair
Hand held vacuums are designed for small jobs. Since they are so light you can easily move them from sofa to couch, which is made even easier since some models are cordless. When you need to vacuum up pet hair from stairs, furniture, beds, or other household items, then a hand vacuum may be what you need.
We want to make sure that we use a vacuum with a powered brush head as a rule. A turbo brush may work well, but it depends on the style of carpet whether this type of brush head will work properly. Suction only vacuums rarely are a good choice for pet hair as the hair is hooked microscopically in the carpet fibers and will hold on frequently even with a strong airflow. We encourage you not to take any one person or manufacturer’s word for whether or not a vacuum works on pet and human hair. Ask the vacuum retailer to demonstrate the ability of his recommendation. A vacuum retailer can use cotton or kapok as these fibers are natural and act like pet hair, and one can instantly see whether or not the recommended vacuum is effective in picking this up. Allergies
The first step to control asthma and allergy symptoms is to identify what triggers them. The second is to limit your exposure. Many who suffer from asthma and allergies find that triggers can vary with time and with the change of seasons. A high-quality filtration system largely prevents asthma and allergy triggers from being returned to the air via the vacuum's exhaust. The vacuum should also be “sealed” to prevent dust and dirt from escaping from other places on the vacuum such as body seams. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for cleaning and replacement frequency of filters and bags.
If you are an allergy sufferer, DO NOT BUY OR USE A BAGLESS VACUUM. This
type of vacuum is terribly dirty and leaks from the seals and joints and
emptying
Carpet is what most people think of when you mention vacuuming. You need a vacuum that is powerful enough to get deep into the fibers and remove asthma and allergy triggers. It’s important for asthmatics and allergy sufferers to vacuum not only visible carpet areas, but under and behind furniture as well. Asthma and allergy triggers tend to build up in areas that are not frequently seen. When vacuuming carpet and other surfaces, go slowly. Many people vacuum too fast to remove the dirt and allergens that are embedded deep in carpet fibers, and doing so will stir up more dust into the air than is being picked up. Allow the powerhead of the vacuum to move over the carpet to loosen debris, which will then be drawn into the air stream where it will be trapped in the vacuum bag.
A commonly overlooked repository for asthma and allergy triggers is upholstered furniture, which can hold dust mites and other asthma triggers. Many vacuum cleaners have brushes and attachments specifically designed for cleaning upholstered furniture. You can also purchase a “turbo brush,” which can make the job of deeply cleaning your upholstery an easier task. Some fragile fabrics can be damaged by vacuuming. Most canister vacuums feature a variable speed control that allows cleaning of fragile items. Go slowly and be thorough. Make sure to clean all sides of pillows and cushions, and don't neglect the back and sides of the piece.
We spend a lot of time in our beds, as do many peoples' pets. Mattresses need to be frequently vacuumed. Vacuuming alone will not remove all of the dust mites from your mattress, but it will help. Vacuuming will also aid in removing pet dander from your bed as well as other allergens. When you vacuum your mattress, don't forget the sides and the back. If you are an allergy sufferer or asthmatic, vacuuming is more critical to you than most people. Finding a TRUE HEPA filtered vacuum with a “sealed” unit will be an important element in your fight to keep the dust and dirt from floating around your home and triggering a reaction. When you come to our store, we will be sure to show you only those vacuums that are truly capable of delivering clean, filtered air into your home. Experts agree that one of the best things you can do to manage allergies, especially inhalant allergies, is clean frequently. Vacuuming can remove both dust and other allergens, if done properly and regularly. Consider vacuuming at least twice a week and more frequently if your allergies are serious or you have carpet in your home. Shag Carpet
Shag carpeting, an icon of the 1970’s, has been resurrected and today is
frequently called frieze (pronounced frizz-ay), One of the challenges of having a shag style carpet is that if you were to actually read the manufacturer’s warranty, you would find that the warranty will be voided if you use a vacuum cleaner with a spinning brushroll. Carpet fibers are really quite durable on the tip. However, with shag, the fibers lie down rather than stand up, and the brush will actually scrape fibers off of the yarn and eventually wear it out. A traditional vacuum cleaner with a brushroll should NOT be used on a shag carpet!
Some of the varieties of shag MAY be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner with a brush roll, but it’s absolutely essential that there is a manual height adjustment and that it is used so that the brushroll touches the tips of the fibers and does not dig down into the side of the yarn. This is delicate issue, but if you are interested in exploring this option, please bring a piece of your carpet so that we can determine whether or not this option will work for you. I repeat that using a brush will invalidate the warranty on your shag or frieze carpets. For longer shag, a canister with a straight suction nozzle, or an upright vacuum where the brushroll can be turned off, is the right choice. In addition, the old-fashioned tool called a carpet rake is also recommended for grooming the carpet and fluffing the yarn strands before vacuuming. If you have frieze or shag carpeting, come see us today for the right vacuum cleaner and tools. The 6 Most Common Mistakes The 6 Most Common Mistakes The 6 Most Common Mistakes (top)
Vacuums have a dirty job to do! They are also the most replaced appliance in your home. Again, because vacuums are used so often to pick up dirt, all manufacturers recommend service once a year. Before you buy, ask your store what you have to do if you need service or if there is a problem with your new vacuum. If they say you have to take it somewhere else to be repaired or serviced, you might want to buy it from the original source in the first place. Myth #1: Amps Mean Performance Myth #2: Everyone Needs HEPA
Keep in mind that even high-end HEPA-filtered vacuums may still be driving dust airborne by the impact of a beater brush against the carpet. With uprights or canisters equipped with power heads, the critical information to have is how much airflow and lift are occurring at the beater brush/floor interface to help determine whether or not particles are being pulled into the vacuum or driven airborne. The extra-wide orifice on some upright vacuums and power nozzles result in greatly diminished suction at the tool head and poor soil capture. More on this later under "The Venturi Principle". Myth #3: Picking Up a "Bowling Ball" Shows Cleaning Power, NOT! Myth #4: All Vacuum Belts are the Same Myth #5: Cyclonic Systems Do Not Use Filters & Require Less Maintenance Some vacuum cleaners are actually designed to produce cyclonic airflow even with conventional microfilters. Ribbed panels in the filter containment area create a rotating column of air inside the filter bag, so soil is deposited evenly on the sidewalls of the filter where it has the greatest surface area, ensuring sustained airflow longer. Myth #6: All Vacuum Cleaners Have Similar Design Features and are Equally
Easy to Use Canister vacuums vary widely in shape and design, affecting usability. One model balances the weight primarily over the large rear wheels to facilitate nimble handling and ease of pulling. Some canisters trip over power cords, while others roll over such obstacles easily. Design and weight distribution make the difference. Backpack vacuums now weigh in at less than 10 pounds, with precision
suspension systems that distribute the weight across the hips and not the
shoulders for ideal balance and maneuverability. A) Airflow The Venturi Principle is an important bit of science to understand. Basically, the Venturi Principle causes air velocity to increase as the corridor it passes through narrows. That explains the effectiveness of suction-only backpacks or canisters that use a narrow tool opening or orifice enabling greater suction, versus some upright machines that have a very wide tool orifice to accommodate the rotating brush, thus reducing air velocity and cleaning effectiveness. The best vacuums reach an effective compromise, enabling effective cleaning of plush carpet by proportioning the orifice opening and beater brush to allow the rotating brush to perform well while maintaining proper airflow and lift to remove soil and prevent airborne contaminants. What to Ask Vacuum Vendors This gets confusing because manufacturers test their equipment and explain their results differently. For example, some companies test only the air going through the filter, but not the air coming out of the motor exhaust or through gaps in the body or around the motor housing and wheels. Other manufacturers use different methods to test their vacuums and filters. It’s even possible that some simply make marketing claims with virtually no testing at all. Since not everyone follows the same rules, there are, in effect, many similar-sounding but different claims made by manufacturers to market their vacuum cleaners and filtration, with very little standardization and no regulatory policing. |
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Upright Vacuum – If you were to give a 4 year old a
carton of crayons and paper and ask him or her to draw a “vacuum cleaner” he
or she would draw a picture that would resemble an upright vacuum. This is
by far the most popular style in the U.S. These vacuums are pushed in front
of the user and have a handle extending from the main body. Most have a
spinning brush roll, and many have onboard tools for cleaning upholstery,
stairs or hard to reach areas. 
isters are fitted with a “turbo brush,” which is driven by the power
and speed of the air moving through the nozzle much like the action of a
windmill. No electric motor is present in these types of heads. Many
canister vacuums are equipped with a “powerhead.” These heads are driven by
a separate electric motor (separate from the motor inside the canister
housing) and are used where thicker carpets are in place. Most “powerheads”
have a switch that can be turned “off” so that hard floors can be cleaned
with the same head. This is the most versatile of vacuum types as it can
accomplish nearly all household vacuuming jobs (not suitable for wet/dry
applications).
Central Vacuum System – This type of vacuum system is
typically mounted in the basement or garage and has 1 or 2 larger and more
powerful motors. These systems have the air routed through the walls via PVC
pipe and wall outlets with a 30’ long hose inserted into the vacuum inside
the house. Some systems use a “turbo” brush and others permit the use of a
separate “powerhead” to provide the same cleaning performance as upright or
canister type vacuums. With this type of system, the dirt and allergens are
exhausted outside of the house. Some people do not like having to hang or
store the 30’ hose and powerhead.
Handheld Vacuum – These are small vacuums that are used
for small or quick jobs around the home. They can be made with an electrical
cord that must be plugged in or may be “cordless” with a rechargeable
battery.
e carpet cleaning systems do not actually produce steam. However, this
is the label that has typically been applied to these types of cleaners.
They are more correctly household “extractors.” In most cases, these
cleaners inject carpet cleaning solution into the carpet through one or more
jets, the solution is agitated by the use of a brush to loosen the embedded
dirt in the carpet and then a vacuum motor “extracts” the dirt and water
based solution and deposits it inside an internal tank in the unit where it
can then be emptied.
Stick Vacuums – Stick
vacuums are usually small and
lightweight in their design. They have a long handle and can have an
electrical cord or can be powered by a rechargeable battery. They are used
primarily for small areas or for quick pick ups.
Backpack/Hip Vacuum – Vacuums of this style are very
portable and are carried on the back with a shoulder or waist harness for
equal weight distribution. They are quite powerful and are used mostly in
commercial applications as they can do a wide variety of jobs.
These types
of vacuums can be used with a turbo brush or a powerhead (the vacuum must be
manufactured or retrofitted with an appropriate plug for use with a
powerhead).
as Kleenex has become
synonymous with tissue. These vacuums are used for a variety of industrial
or heavy duty jobs. The vacuums can be used to pick up water or wet
solutions as well as large particles of a dry nature. Some wet/dry vacuums
have multiple motors for additional power, and some can be fitted with a
squeegee to funnel water or wet material into them more easily. Some units
may be fitted with advanced 
air flow, we include it as another means
of cleaning your floors. Many of you have seen these in use at restaurants.
During the time when patrons are eating, it is not desirable to turn on a
vacuum cleaner and have the noise and the potential churning up of a lot of
airborne dust. This mechanical device utilizes a brush, or rubber vanes, to
sweep particles on top of floors or carpets, and brush them into a holding
compartment to be emptied later.
This is one of the most common questions asked in our store. With over 50%
of all vacuums sold in America being bagless, one would assume that so many
people can’t be wrong. Can they?
remember
which ones you need in order to get the right ones. Bagless vacuums have
been touted as “maintenance free.” I will state emphatically now that there
is no such thing as a “lifetime filter.” You were told that it “won’t lose
suction.” This is technically true, but as a practical matter, a complete
falsehood. Did you ever read the owner’s guide to show you how to unclog
your vacuum? If it’s clogged, doesn’t it lose suction? As I said, the
manufacturers played on the unpleasant parts of vacuuming to create a desire
on your part to avoid these things in the future.
While telling you that you will never have to buy bags again, you are not
told that a filtering device (a bag is a filter) is still needed to keep
dust from re-circulating into your home. One or more filters is required to
catch the fine dust particles in a bagless vacuum, and if these are not
regularly cleaned and periodically replaced, your vacuum will soon be
spewing a lot of dirty air into your home. Bagless vacuum filters clog
quickly and are seldom maintained as required by homeowners. And worst of
all, the cost of replacing the filters in a bagless vacuum will EXCEED the
cost of replacement vacuum bags in almost all cases.
Another thing avoided in the marketing of bagless vacuums is the requirement
to have to empty the dust bucket of all that fine particle dust and dirt. I
have emptied the bucket on these vacuums, and it is hard to describe the
“dust cloud” that billows out from the trash can when doing this outside.
And, I hope no one has ever done this inside your home. The need to run the
vacuum immediately afterward would be appropriate.
One of the worst claims made by bagless manufacturers is that these vacuums
are appropriate for allergy sufferers because of their HEPA filter. As I
stated earlier, these vacuums leak at the seals and joints and can spew
millions of fine dust particles into an otherwise clean house and trigger
reactions to sensitive people.
If you have pets in your home, then no doubt you have dealt with cleaning up
the hair they leave behind. What is the best vacuum for dog or cat hair?
Manufacturers of vacuums have had to address this issue to deal with the
ongoing problems of hair or dander. Fortunately, there are options.
Should you own a newer upright cleaner you may have a small, powered turbine
attachment that works just like a mini vacuum. You hook these up to your
hose, power on the machine, and use it like any other attachment. The power
of these little tools is in their design. They have bristles just like their
full sized counterparts so they can really pull dust, dirt, and even
stubborn pet hair from any carpet. Plus they are attached to the hose so you
can use them on any object in your home without difficulty. Think of them as
a way to extend the functionality of your full sized vacuum. And if your
current model doesn’t have one, you can buy one for a relatively low cost.
If you suffer from allergies and asthma, vacuuming does a lot more than make
your home look better. It is as important as taking medication to control
your condition. Vacuuming is an essential part of limiting exposure to
asthma and allergy triggers such as pet dander, dust mites, pollen and other
allergens. We only address the issues of vacuuming in this section, but
allergy and asthmatics may require the additional step of air purification.
Please see our section on 
the dust container is like exploding a dust bomb around you.
Regardless of claims of LIFETIME HEPA FILTERS and such, we will show you
specifically in our showroom ANY bagless vacuum leaks by means of a particle
counter. Conversely, we will show you a high quality alternative that WILL
NOT leak and re-circulate dust into your home.
Most asthmatics and allergy sufferers believe that hard floors are better
for their conditions, but one must not forget that triggers still accumulate
on hard flooring and have to be removed. Doing so is easy with the right
equipment. You will want a vacuum that has a hard floor setting. This means
that the brushroll can be turned off. Using the brushroll on a hard floor
may damage the surface. Canister vacuums can be fitted with a floor brush
that is quite effective in sweeping your floors and delivering the dust and
dirt into the air stream to be picked up and lodged in the vacuum bag.
Drapes and curtains are among the most neglected hiding places for allergy
and asthma triggers. The typically light nature of drapes and curtains makes
them difficult to clean. A canister vacuum with variable speed control is
the best way to speed up this process.
or California shag. Better
carpet fibers and improved manufacturing techniques are creating a carpet
with good looks and good wear capability. However, shag carpet
demands the correct type of vacuum cleaner as you can literally destroy a
vacuum, and even the carpet itself, with the wrong choice.
One of the dirty little secrets of the situation is that while this is true,
your carpet can’t really be cleaned without some sort of agitation. Some
manufacturers make tools that appear like a rake and have good success with
removing some items stuck in the carpets. But in the end, there is a reason
that vacuums have brushes that spin—because they do the best job of
agitating and grooming the carpets.